3 garden strategies to address Southern California’s persistent drought

There must be at least a few righteous people in Los Angeles. After all, it is said that God brings drought in order to hear prayers for rain from the righteous since their prayers are especially valued on high. We have unexpectedly been blessed this year with some November rain, proving that those prayers, to a degree, have already been answered.

There is nothing more satisfying than to plant seeds and, a day or two later, witness a gentle rain. A pounding rain could dislodge seeds, especially those shallowly planted. But a gentle rain allows seeds to stay where they are and sprout in due course. Furthermore, unlike sprinklers or even drip irrigation, which deliver water unevenly, no corners of the garden are left dry after a rain.

When addressing persistent drought in our gardens over the long term, three strategies come into play: technological fixes, plant selection, and horticultural practices. 

Technological fixes rely on methods of water delivery that maximize every drop of available water. It would appear that subsurface irrigation is in our future since, in utilizing such a system, no water goes to waste. You can find subsurface drip tubing, also usable above ground, for around 50 cents per square foot, with 12-inch spacing between emitters, from online vendors. 

Water recycling is another technological fix when it comes to increasing water supply. In Israel, for example, 90% of effluent water is recycled. Unfortunately, only 2% of Los Angeles effluent is currently recycled although plans are in place to significantly increase this percentage in the near future. More projects for desalination of ocean water are also on the horizon.

The plant selection strategy for saving water gives priority to drought-tolerant species. Here, I am not talking about those plants that need water only once a week, but rather those that, once established, need virtually no water at all as long as we have a little winter rain. Included in this category would be succulents of every description. If you recoil from fleshy succulents, consider leafy ones in the Euphorbia genus. Their foliage is not restricted to green, but may also appear in silver (Euphorbia characias var. Silver Swan), blue (Euphorbia var. Blue Haze and Euphorbia rigida), burgundy (Euphorbia var. Miner’s Merlot), or variegated cream and green, as is the case with the leaf-like bracts of mountain snow (Euphorbia marginata). 

And then there is the African milk bush (Synadenium compactum var. Rubrum), a leafy Euphorbia cousin that can reach ten feet in height or more, with red or variegated red and green foliage. The drought-tolerant Kalanchoe group, consisting solely of succulents, is notable for its wide variety of foliar forms and colors.  Among its standout species are bronze-leafed and yellow-flowered copper spoons (Kalanchoe orgyalis) and the stunning flapjack or paddle plant (Kalanchoe thyrsiflora/luciae), whose leaves are a pastel melange of red, blue, yellow, and green. 

Once established in the garden, many California natives also fit into the never or nearly never-have-to-water group, especially the woody shrubs and trees among them. And the same holds true, I should say, for most shrubs and trees; I have seen a well-mulched hibiscus and butterfly bush (Buddleja davidii), at a height of eight feet, endure an entire summer without a single irrigation. And the same goes for yellow and orange lantana varieties, which are virtually indestructible ground covers. For nearly non-stop color on vines or large shrubs that require little to zero water, plant bougainvillea or yellow bells (Tecoma stans) or cape honeysuckle (Tecomaria capensis). 

Last but not least, rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) and lavender (Lavandula spp.) can go the entire summer with a miniscule amount of water.

The horticultural strategy for saving water relies on the manipulation of a plant’s immediate environment to mimimize water loss from soil and leaf surfaces. Create a modicum of shade with sparsely branched trees (crepe myrtles and tabebuias, example) so that plants partial to sun but tolerant of some shade can grow beneath them; staying out of all-day sun will mean less water stress for these species. With a heavy dose of soil amendments and constant mulch, Nate Benesi grows roses in a waterless (meaning no irrigation whatsoever) garden located at the Nature Center of the San Gabriel Dam Recreation Center, located at 15501 E. Arrow Highway in Irwindale. When it comes to the conservation of water in a vegetable garden, covering plants with shade cloth on hot days will reduce evaporation from leaf surfaces, minimizing heat stress and water loss from the soil.

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California native of the week: Purisima island mallow (Malva var. purissima) is a hybrid between Malva assurgentiflora, endemic to the Channel Islands (located off the coast of Southern California) and Malva venosa, endemic to the San Benitos Islands (located off the coast of Baja California, southwest of Ensenada). This island mallow hybrid has silky, five-petaled flowers, of an iridescent magenta hue. When sprouted from a seed, it can reach up to five feet tall or taller in its first year of growth and already begin to bloom. Although its natural habit of growth is to sprawl in every direction, it can be trained into a small tree or planted as an informal hedge. To elicit dense growth, keep it sheared. Island mallow can be grown as an instant windbreak and, planted near the coast, will not be affected by wind or salty ocean spray. It is summer deciduous; that is, it loses its maple leaf-shaped foliage as summer progresses, keeping only the minimum necessary for survival. By summer’s end, it may be virtually leafless, with new foliage appearing after the first rains. Island mallow attracts hummingbirds and quail, butterflies and bees.

Please send questions, comments, and photos to joshua@perfectplants.com